Going into the trip, I had only planned one thing - a late night manta ray swim, which I’ve done twice before, but is so special and rare that I really wanted the kids to experience it. One thing I forgot about Hawaii - which I always forget - is that going into it with no plans is a very bad idea. So we had a couple of lost days that just weren’t thought out very well and resulted in lots of sitting in the hotel room on devices. But then again, at those times we were all exhausted and needed the downtime, so I’m not sure if it could have or should have been any different.
We flew in on Monday, and arrived early enough that we had a whole day to kill with no actual plans, so pretty much just wandered around and got dinner.
Tuesday I wanted us to have a solid beach day, so we went to Hāpuna beach and boogie boarded, which was fantastic. The only drawback is there was nowhere to rent an umbrella or chairs, and with no shade anywhere, we couldn’t stay as long as I would have liked. So by about noon we were ready to go, and I had nothing planned for the rest of the day except dinner and a farmer’s market in Waimea.
So we went to several places to try to get shave ice and they were all closed, then went to the farmer’s market which was tiny and only had a smattering of vegetables and no fruit; it was far too early to try to stay around for dinner, so we just drove home in defeat and doom scrolled until it was time for dinner. I did find us a really pleasant Oceanside place to eat so hopefully that redeemed the day.
Wednesday the H had talked me into booking a snorkeling tour at Captain Cook - I had done this before and remembered it was a great snorkeling spot, and although I was reluctant to spend another $500, I figured I should go for it, based on how poorly my lack of planning had turned out so far.
Much to my chagrin, despite having snorkeled plenty of times before, Theo suddenly developed a fear of the fish and wanted out, so he sat on the boat most of the time. And Bobby said he was cold and didn’t want to do it, either. So that was a big waste of time and money.
Once again we had nothing planned for the afternoon and were too drained from the snorkeling debacle to be motivated to go on yet another excursion, so we hung around the hotel room and doom scrolled until it was time to set off on the manta ray tour. I was terrified the boys would not want to do it, would freak out and want to get back on the boat, etc etc…if Theo couldn’t handle a few small fish 20 feet away from him, how the hell was he going to react to a 15 foot long manta ray *literally* bumping into him in the ocean in the middle of the night?? We had a talk with them both, and I guess a little guilt went a long way - they both enjoyed it and said how cool it was, thank god.
The next day, the H had booked a surfing lesson for the boys. I was highly skeptical. I figured Bobby might be up for it, but I didn’t picture Theo, still little at just eleven, being able to hold his own on a surfboard in open water. These kids can swim, but they have almost no experience being in deep ocean water where they can’t touch the bottom. It’s way different doggy paddling around your tiny, shallow pool than swimming in the ocean. So I did not feel good about it at all, and my fears were soon realized. The young guy doing the “lesson” paid zero attention to them - he had his back to Theo almost the whole time, and never seemed to notice that Theo was off on his own, unable to keep up. Bobby finally had to go over and sit by him on his board because it was clear Theo was struggling. At one point he fell off the board and could barely get back on, and I was absolutely horrified. I really thought my worst fear - that one of my kids would drown on vacation - was about to come true, right in front of my eyes, while I watched helplessly from the shore. I couldn’t have been more relieved when somehow the instructor saw him and came over to tow him back to shore while the others continued. There were almost no surfable waves, so Bobby pretty much just sat on the board or paddled around for the entire 1 1/2 hours. Good times!! Glad I didn’t pay for that shit.
I had rented snorkel equipment in the hopes of snorkeling at that beach, but it was overcast and windy and cold, so I returned it unused, and once again we went back to the hotel room for more doomscrolling. We did get in a nice date night that night, now possible by being able to leave kids in the hotel room unattended.
Our final day, Friday, was packed full of adventures, thankfully. It was my fourth trip to the Big Island and yet I had never been to the fabled green sand beach, largely because it’s so remote and difficult to fit into an itinerary. But we went, and endured a bumpy, crazy ride in the back of a pickup truck, and it was fabulous, definitely my favorite thing we did. We only had 45 minutes there or I would have gotten in the water, which the boys did. I would definitely go again, except I would hike it and plan to spend the entire day, bringing a lunch and a change of clothes.
We had wanted to hit up Punalu’u, the black sand beach with turtles we visited last time, but ran out of time and skipped it to go straight to Volcano National Park, which was closed on our last visit. It was moderately interesting, but not great - apparently a lot of the cool features were gone since the H was a kid (a visitor center with a Geiger counter constantly going off, the ability to walk down into the crater, etc). A lot had changed since the eruption that affected our 2018 trip. So we saw some cool steam vents, looked at the crater, and went in a lava tube before the sun set and it was time to go home.
We returned yesterday night, an uneventful trip home, thankfully. Planes didn’t crash, tattoo didn’t get infected, nobody burned except Bobby’s legs and arms on the first day despite my hyper vigilance with sun screen. A good time was had.
But I think it’s safe to say that, as with all things right now, the cloud of what’s happening in our country overshadowed everything with a sense of doom. Everyone said, “just unplug, don’t pay any attention to this stuff when you’re gone”, but that was totally impossible, and also, to me, morally questionable. You can’t unplug right now - none of us have that privilege. So I followed the drama of the senator visiting Garcia in El Salvador, and the 1 AM Supreme Court ruling against further deportations, and the protests yesterday that, so far, have not caused a declaration of martial law today as everyone had feared. The whole time I couldn’t help but wonder when - or if! - we’d be able to have a Hawaiian vacation like this again, even with free flights & lodging. I wondered whether I should cancel our cruise in June. I wondered, and wonder, again, just how bad the financial pain is going to be for me this year - is it going to be a total wipeout, like 2001, back when I was single and childless and my expenses were 1/10th of what they are now…? I’m terrified. A bunch of Koreans canceled during the week, with thousands in contest fees going with them. I didn’t even have enough money in my stripe account to fund the refunds and so had to set up a wire to pay them. I’ve never had to do that before. How bad is this going to get?? I feel like all of us, whether we know it or not, are looking over a cliff right now. We’re still standing on the edge of the cliff, but in a month or two we’ll be plummeting down. The real effects of all this financial ineptitude won’t be felt for a few more weeks, but when it does - look out. And again I have to ask myself…how bad will it be for me this year? How many hundreds of people will I lose? I won’t know for weeks, as now until about mid-July are always dead for signups anyway. The uncertainty and fear are killing me. It’s really, really hard to exist under these conditions.